Junger opens with a detailed account of a near-death experience while surfing on a frigid January day marked by harsh conditions, including ice-covered sand, storm debris, and powerful waves. Despite his extensive surfing experience, Junger admits that he underestimated the unique dangers of winter surfing, such as denser water, steeper wave formations, and the difficulty of holding one’s breath in cold water.

Junger recounts paddling out and encountering massive, ominous, powerful waves. He attempted to dive beneath one particularly large wave but was caught in its powerful turbulence. The author details the terrifying experience of being tossed underwater, likening it to being in a cement mixer. He describes running out of air, losing his sense of direction, and believing he might drown. Junger notes how his body instinctively knew the signs of impending drowning, as his vision closed down and his throat started to gag. Just as he neared unconsciousness, Junger managed to surface, only to face another enormous wave, forcing him to dive again.

The narrative then shifts to Junger’s experiences as a tree trimmer in his late twenties. He explains the inherent dangers of the job, including the risk of falls and chainsaw accidents. Although Junger experienced a significant injury—his chainsaw severed his Achilles tendon—he believes tree climbing gave him a sense of control over his fate, unlike many other life situations, because all the necessary information for survival was directly observable.