The titular Homesick Restaurant becomes one of the novel’s defining motifs. It evolves and changes over the course of the years, acting as both a setting for many combative family encounters and a representation of Ezra’s personality. However, when the restaurant is first introduced, it is known under a different name. Scarlatti’s is something of a throwback; the traditional Italian style seems outdated, even by the standards of the time and the socioeconomic level of the neighborhood. Ezra takes on a partnership in the restaurant after befriending the owner. As she lies dying, he begins to absentmindedly make changes until the restaurant bears little resemblance to its old self. Mrs. Scarlatti is shocked and appalled by what he has done. For a character who is typically so emotionally intelligent and pleasant, this is perhaps Ezra’s greatest sin. By the time he realizes what he has done, it is too late to undo the damage. Mrs. Scarlatti dies without ever forgiving Ezra, and this lack of forgiveness eats away at him.

Before Mrs. Scarlatti dies, she hosts one of the first family meals in the restaurant. It becomes a repeated motif throughout the novel that the Tull family will sit down to dinner.