On the heels of the discussion with Fritz, Heat-Moon opens a further discussion that probes the nature of harmony. This is another example of how the book is at times both a travel journal and philosophical inquiry.

Heat-Moon begins the chapter driving through the southern end of the Cascade Mountain range, and after he enters Oregon, he stops in at a local restaurant. While there, he notices a Land Cruiser pulling an Airstream trailer with a boat affixed to it. While Heat-Moon stairs at the monstrosity, “amazed at this achievement of transport called a vacation” (217), the owner of this paraphernalia engages him in a curt discussion. Heat-Moon senses the man’s condescension, and it spoils his mood—as does the whole experience at the rest stop, the restaurant and the service included. The shift comes at the wrong time for Heat-Moon, as his solitude turns to weary loneliness. The narrative tone becomes much more agitated and cynical.

Heat-Moon continues on his way until he reaches Oregon State University, where he calls it quits for the night. His mood has not improved, and now he is fully in the doldrums, road weary, and frustrated.